flow flows parks hawaiian islands tourist travel tropical destination destinations united states america world heritage site sites detail details elastic wavy volcanoes volcano volcanic survivor tenacity adversity ferns habitats pioneer plants species larry ulrich ama'uma'u fern on pahoehoe lava kilauea crater hawaii national park island of activity native endemic endemics pukiawe and uluhe (false staghorn fern) unfurling unfurled furl fiddleneck fiddlenecks design designs pattern patterns growth youth shyness landscape landscapes attraction attractions romantic solitude temperate rainforest rainforests trails path pathway hiking tree hapu'u ohia-lehua trees iki trail urban rainbows recent rainbow chain craters road arches eruption eruptions flowing steam cloud clouds surf sunrise sunrises power molten magma hot powerful danger g. brad lewis sea arch from entering the pacific ocean